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The luck of the stylish: Irish designers rule London Fashion Week

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February 26, 2025
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The luck of the stylish: Irish designers rule London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week (20-24 February) has long been a launchpad for global talent, but this season, Irish designers commanded the spotlight with collections that masterfully intertwined heritage, craftsmanship, and contemporary vision.

What made this season remarkable wasn't just the presence of Irish designers at LFW, but the deeply personal, unapologetically Irish narratives they wove into their work.

Irish fashion has often been defined by craftsmanship, storytelling, and an ability to merge history with the contemporary. This season, London bore witness to that legacy in full force.

These designers are not just making clothes; they’re shaping narratives, redefining traditions, and proving that Irish fashion is not just part of the conversation - it is leading it.

Below is an exploration of each designer's line and how they brought a distinct perspective to their collection while staying rooted in their Irish identity.

Paul Costelloe: An Equestrian Homage to Irish Heritage

Paul Costelloe: Photography courtesy of Paul Costelloe

For the past 15 years, Paul Costelloe has opened London Fashion Week's morning schedule with his coveted Friday morning slot, and the Autumn Winter 2025 season was no exception.

In his latest collection, the veteran designer paid tribute to Ireland’s equestrian traditions, delivering a showcase inspired by dressage and country heritage.

The collection leaned into classic riding attire, with tweeds, voluminous coats, and knee-high socks dominating the runway. Sourced from Magee of Ireland and Harris Tweed, the fabrics highlighted Costelloe's dedication to Heritage Craftsmanship.

Costelloe’s dedication to Heritage Craftsmanship

Photography credit Olu Ogunshakin

With 'Mo Ghile Mear' by The Chieftains and Rod Stewart’s cover of 'Grace' soundtracking the show, the Irish influence from the Dublin-born designer was undeniable. Approaching his 80th birthday, Costelloe remains a steadfast force in fashion, blending nostalgia with modern sensibilities in a way that resonates with both long-time admirers and new generations.

Sinéad O’Dwyer: Defying Conventions with Body-Inclusive Design

Photo: Sinéad O'Dwyer

Sinéad O’Dwyer bid farewell to her time under the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN programme with Character Studies on Saturday, a collection that redefined inclusivity and body-conscious design. Held at 180 The Strand, the presentation featured a soundscape of rhythmic drumming and ethereal harp, setting the stage for a collection that explored power, softness, and self-expression.

O’Dwyer, from Tullamore, challenges traditional fashion ideals. Her AW25 line showcased sharply tailored blazers cinched with leather bands, oversized metallic suspender clips, and an autumnal palette of oxblood, teal, and black.

Getty Images

While Japanese Shibari influences have become a hallmark of her work, she also draws on her Irish roots, with lace-up details referencing traditional Irish dance ghillies appearing not just in the shoes but in the dresses, reimagined as both functional and decorative, adding a deeply personal nod to her childhood.

Her work is rooted in rejecting rigid body standards, instead crafting pieces that emphasise movement, natural form, and self-expression. Her commitment to diverse sizing (ranging from UK 4 to 30) is embedded in her brand’s ethos, making her work a genuine force in reshaping luxury fashion.

Banshee of Savile Row: Art and Tailoring Collide

Banshee: Alla Bogdanovic, courtesy of Banshee of Savile Row

Saturday evening saw Irish designer Ruby Slevin’s Banshee of Savile Row take an avant-garde approach to tailoring with Interwoven, a collaboration with artist Eleanor Ekserdjian. Hosted at Messums London, the show blurred the line between fashion and fine art.

Models moved fluidly through the gallery space, weaving around the artist as Ekserdjian painted her signature ink print directly onto a model draped in a floor-length, double-breasted white jacket.

Slevin’s designs featured masterful tailoring infused with an organic artistic edge. The collection included standout pieces such as a structured herringbone jacket and mini skirt and a '70s-inspired red velvet suit.

A model walks the runway at the Banshee of Savile Row show during London Fashion Week February 2025 on February 22, 2025 in London, England. (Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images)

The line featured hand-painted abstract-printed silks from the partnership with Ekserdjian, resulting in one-of-a-kind pieces where brushstrokes became part of the garments, reinforcing the collection’s theme of art as a living entity.

As the first exclusively bespoke womenswear brand on Savile Row, Banshee is redefining luxury tailoring. Rooted in Irish folklore and traditional craftsmanship, Slevin brings her heritage to the forefront, incorporating Irish linens and tweeds in her lines while challenging the traditional menswear-dominated space.

Simone Rocha: Subverting Tradition

Simone Rocha Credit: Ben Broomfield

Simone Rocha’s AW25 collection on Sunday drew from her Dublin schooldays, reimagining uniforms through a rebellious yet nostalgic lens. Set in Goldsmiths’ Hall in South East London, her designs explored contrasts. Prim and proper elements clashed with unconventional silhouettes, resulting in a collection that balanced innocence with defiance.

Daughter of legendary designer John Rocha, the Ranelagh native frequently draws on Ireland and her childhood for inspiration, and this season was no different. Rocha referenced a schoolgirl’s wardrobe of tweed twin sets, crisp collars, and ballet flats, reimagined with oversized proportions, deconstructed details, and unexpected fabrics.

Irish actors Fiona Shaw and Fionn O’Shea took to the runway alongside Alexa Chung and Bel Powley. Chain belts, corsetry, and exaggerated silhouettes infused the otherwise delicate collection with a strong, defiant energy. The brand continues to play with the masculine and feminine, delivering a collection steeped in history, narrative, and identity.