Review: I tried out two resorts in Austria's Ski Amadé region

Have you ever been out for dinner and found your cutlery coated in frost or your drink turning to ice? Neither had I until I attended a full moon mountain dinner in Sportgastein, Austria.

Surrounded by towering 3,000-meter peaks, it was like dining inside a snow globe. The valley and surrounding mountains were blanketed in snow, and the fire pits gently cracked in the crisp mountain air. The staff at Valeriehaus had set a candlelit banquet table beneath a full moon so bright it could have doubled as a spotlight. Bundled up in layers, I took my seat.

The smell of wood smoke, glühwein*, and the four courses of hearty alpine dishes added to the sensory onslaught that unfolded. Despite the minus degrees, I didn't feel the cold until the end of the two-hour feast. Mummers of delighted diners continued all night.

How could one not be happy eating in one of the world’s most breathtaking dining rooms?

You see, ski holidays aren’t just about skiing; there’s so much more that adds texture to the experience: the gastronomy, the spas, and the resort’s unique character. And when it comes to Austria, it delivers in spades.

I visited two very different, but equally satisfying, resorts in the Salzburgerland. Maria Alm and Bad Gastein are part of Ski Amadé, a pass covering five regions, 25 ski areas, and 760 km of slopes.

Maria Alm is just an hour’s transfer from Salzburg airport and my introduction to the resort was a boutique Christmas market in the village square.

If I tried, I couldn’t have conjured up a more Christmassy scene. A brass quartet played Christmas music, locals sipped on glühwein, and groups huddled around fire pits as snowflakes drifted gently from the sky.

Traditional alpine huts lined the square, where vendors sold artisan handcrafts such as wood toys, homemade schnapps, and preserves. Not a piece of plastic in sight – everything was authentic and in tune with the stunning mountain backdrop.

Towering over the market was the Pilgrimage Church. I took a stroll to it, passing by kids toasting marshmallows on a bonfire and taking in the live crib. Inside the church, I was surprised to find a light show illuminating the altar in different colours. It felt more like a psychedelic art installation than what one would expect in a traditional church.

Hotel Eder offers a warm, cosy atmosphere, blending unique design with a welcoming vibe. Owner Sepp transformed his grandfather's inn into a stylish boutique hotel with impeccable attention to detail. The hotel has four eateries, but for a special experience, go to Eder & Sons. With just seven tables and an open kitchen, everyone got a great view of the former Red Bull Hangar-7 chef as he prepared our delicious meal.

A few minutes from the hotel is the main ski lift. After a six-year hiatus from skiing, I went about regaining my ski legs on the easy greens before tackling the blues and reds. Maria Alm suits all levels, with wide slopes perfect for families and mixed groups, though advanced skiers may find it less challenging. The resort’s chilled vibe focuses on skiing, great food, and relaxed evenings without a wild après-ski scene - unless you create your own.

On my first morning, my confidence grew with each run. Gliding down the slopes, my movements felt fluid, and I was utterly immersed in the moment. At the base, I paused to take in the stunning, silent mountains, so still and timeless. I wondered why I had let so much time pass without doing something that brings such joy.

I returned to the village after a delicious mountain lunch as part of the Königstouren, a culinary tour where you ski from hut to hut for each course. Hotel Eder’s 25-meter indoor-outdoor pool felt like a massive hot tub, with water jets perfect for soothing tired muscles.

Uniquely, the indoor section is set within one of the hotel’s restaurants, separated only by glass walls. It was an interesting experience to swim while diners enjoyed their meal on the other side of the glass. It reminded me of a classy version of the window in Dan Lowrey’s pub in Mosney holiday camp back in the 1980s. Thankfully, for the diners, no one was pulling mooners!

Bad Gastein has an entirely different flavour compared to other ski towns. Built in the 1800s as a luxurious spa destination, it attracted royalty and aristocrats who were drawn to its healing thermal waters, which are rich in radon. Even today, German and Austrian doctors prescribe 'the cure’ for their patients with rheumatic and musculoskeletal disorders, often involving six weeks of radon therapy in baths or caves.

Bad Gastein evolved into a winter sports destination when skiing took off in the early 20th century. Its blend of skiing, wellness, and cultural heritage sets it apart from other resorts.

I met Elisabeth Kröll, who hosts guided tours of the town. She explained how the royalty wanted their holiday homes to resemble their city residence, giving rise to the town’s distinctive belle-époque architecture. These grand buildings, dramatically perched on steep slopes, create a stunning alpine skyline. Among them is the former Grand Hotel de l’Europe, often cited as an inspiration for the Wes Anderson film The Grand Budapest Hotel.

I stayed at Hotel Salzburger Hof, a beautiful example of belle-époque architecture and can be booked as a ski package holiday with Irish tour operator Topflight. The hotel’s walls are adorned with photos of famous people who visited the area. Elisabeth pointed out some of these, such as Marylin Monroe, Albert Einstein, Sigmund Freud and W.B. Yeats.

She showed us Hugh Grant’s regular haunts and how he affectionately calls the town ‘Good Gastein’. She also had some Irish trivia - our former president, Mary McAleese, famously broke her ankle on a ski lift in 2002. In a more amusing anecdote, U2 were reportedly turned away from Eden’s Pub in 1987 because the bartender thought they looked too scruffy. A decision he has lived to regret.

Hotel Salzburger Hof was in the town centre, next to the ski lift and Silver Bullet, one of the town's most popular après ski bars. Bad Gastein is a part of the Gastein Valley, which also includes the towns of Dorfgastein, Bad Hofgastien and Sportgastein, all easily accessible by bus with your Ski Amadé pass. The pass also offers free train transport from Salzburg to Bad Gastein, a journey with breathtaking views.

I rode the gondola to Stubnerkogel, reaching 2,246 meters, and relished the expansive mountain views from the suspension bridge before hitting the slopes. The terrain is perfect for intermediate skiers, with long cruisy blues and more challenging red pistes. The interconnected Schlossalm area offers a similar variety. More advanced skiers can enjoy good off-piste options and ski touring in Sportgastein.

After a warm bowl of goulash at a mountain hut, I skied back to the town and made my way to the Alpentherme in Bad Hofgastein. The complex is the closest I’ve seen to a wellness holiday park. It utilises the natural Gastein thermal waters and boasts indoor and outdoor pools, a peaceful relaxation area, and a family zone complete with a lazy river, water slides and even a swim-in aquarium - a first for me.

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I found myself in the adults-only Sauna World, where one sauna was packed with about 40 naked Austrians. The towel-wielding sauna master arrived to do his ‘show’, and with a flourish, he poured essential oil-infused water on the coals and danced around like a matador. Using his towel, he whipped the scorching, humid air towards us, all while Nordic rock blasted at a level that should never be played.

The Austrians clapped and cheered in delight while I wondered if I might die from the intense heat. Needless to say, I left the sauna feeling reborn – mostly from surviving the suffocating heat but also from the experience of surviving the Nordic rock. A fitting, if slightly traumatising, end to a fantastic ski trip.

Deirdre Mullins was a guest of Austria Tourism. For more information on the regions mentioned above visit www.skiamade.com, www.hochkoenig.com, www.gastein.com.

Discover more of Deirdre’s travels by following her on Instagram @deirdremullins

*Always drink responsibly